The route of the Tour de France is announced every November, ahead of the race the following year. In November 2022, the organisers announced that the Basque Country would host the start of the race.
The riders would head into and over the Pyrenees, then north-east across mid-France, before reaching the Massif Central where there would be a summit finish of the iconic Puy de Dome volcano on day nine.
I had first visited the Pyrenees in 2019. Riding the mountain ascents and feeling the power and accomplishment at their summits was addictive. Ever since returning home I had longed to go back. That same year I had watched the spectacle of the summit finish on the Tourmalet, and had been inspired to go and see the Tour in person. The passion of the fans at the roadside, with the action and drama of the mountain stages, had me hooked.
But I didn’t want to fly this time – I felt uneasy that the emissions from flying would contribute to the destruction of the nature I was travelling to see. So when the 2023 route was announced, with the start point in Bilbao – reachable by ferry from the UK – I knew this was my chance to chase the Tour.
I booked a one-way ticket on Brittany Ferries sailing from Portsmouth to Santander on the eve of le Grand Depart. From there I would cycle the 1000 kilometres from Santander to le Massif Central, where I would meet my friends, who were driving from the UK, so we could ride together to watch the battle up Puy de Dome on Sunday 9th July.
To ride there felt like a pilgrimage, especially covering the same iconic mountain passes that the pro riders would cycle over in the following days, including le Col du Tourmalet, the Tour de France’s most-used mountain climb.
During the ferry crossing (lasting one day and two nights) I was able to switch on mentally to the idea of the trip, as well as socialise with my fellow passengers – the benefits of travelling slowly. I met two fellow cycle tourers, and we shared our grand plans over a couple of glasses of red wine.
My sleeping space was a reserved seating area, which had a feeling not dissimilar to a hostel, where I met motorcyclists, hikers, and backpackers. Cabins are available to those who value privacy (and a mattress!). I took top-deck strolls, read 'Brave New World' by Huxley, and tuned into the first stage of the Tour using a laptop borrowed from a fellow passenger.
Mounting my bike in Santander signalled the departure from the binds of everyday life: riding from one place to another, eating and sleeping to fuel and recover, is simple and liberating. Cycle touring helps you fully appreciate the vastness of nature. I watched the landscapes evolve kilometre-by-kilometre, from the intimidating infinity of the Atlantic Ocean to the drama of the Pyrenean mountains, passing through characterful towns and villages, with architecture from classic to contemporary.
I was confident I’d make Puy de Dome in seven days, riding at an average of eight hours daily, barring any catastrophic mechanical. The riding was challenging but with a balance of terrain.
For one who romanticises the scenery and suffering of the Tour de France my highlight was always going to be the mountains. Shivers went down my spine ascending the Col de Marie Blanque, over roads where the names of famous riders were stencilled, cheered on by fans who were camping in anticipation of the Tour passing through the following day.
Other highs were being greeted by wild horses on the border between Basque Country and France, pedalling through fields of sunflowers, and the towns of Bilbao, Eigoibar and Toulouse.
What kept me going was the thought of meeting my friends in le Massif Central, amongst the menacing volcanoes of the Auvergne, in a converted barn within a farming hamlet, Chameil. The transition from the solace of solo cycling to the euphoria of camaraderie was so powerful. Riding out with my friends to chase the Tour to the foot of Puy de Dome on 9th July 2023 is a day I’ll never forget.
Slow travel is something I now look for within my leisure time, whether that be a lunch-time stroll at work, or an extended time on holiday. Slowing things down allows you to engage all your senses within your surroundings, find solace and clarity in the mind.
I will look to travel predominately flight-free for the rest of my life; I’m already dreaming up an adventure to Italy in 2025 to chase my next cycling Grand Tour, The Giro D'Italia.
Route:
Train (with bike) Sheffield to London
Train (with bike) London to Portsmouth
Ferry (with bike) Portsmouth to Santander (one day, two nights)
Cycle Santander to Chameil (7 days)
Car (with bike) Chameil to London
Train (with bike) London to Sheffield
