Travelling to Italy by train isn’t just possible – it’s one of the most relaxing and scenic ways to begin a holiday.
This year, my wife Sue and I decided to swap airport queues for rail comforts and plan a full rail journey from our home in Cheshire to the Italian Lakes.
With the help of ChatGPT to piece together routes, timings and options, we planned a two-week adventure taking in Paris, Milan, Lake Lugano, Porto Ceresio and Lake Como, all by train.
Crewe to London: A Civilised Start
Our adventure began early in the morning on the Avanti West Coast service from Crewe to London Euston. First Class was a real treat – roomy seats, a quiet carriage and breakfast served at our table as the countryside rolled by. At Euston we stretched our legs with a 15‑minute walk to St Pancras before boarding the Eurostar.
The Eurostar Experience
The First Class lounge at St Pancras was spotless, comfortable and not overcrowded. Priority security was a huge bonus – we were through in about 15 minutes, with no need to queue. The Eurostar itself was smooth, modern and impressive.
A Stopover in ParisÂ
Travelling by train allowed us to combine our holiday with a city break: Sue had never visited Paris, so we built in two nights to explore. Notre Dame was a highlight for her. The only issue came at Gare du Nord where we struggled to get a mobile signal to find our Uber, but the driver kindly came to locate us.
Paris to Milan and Porto Ceresio: High-Speed Across Europe
To continue into Italy, we travelled from Paris Gare de Lyon – on the opposite side of Paris from Gare du Nord, so travellers should allow plenty of transfer time. Our SNCF high-speed train was comfortable, though the toilets could have been cleaner. Food on board was extra, so we stocked up at the station for the seven‑hour ride. The scenery was spectacular going through the Alps. We timed the trip so we reached the alps at lunchtime and had good views across the valley.
After a smooth arrival in Milan, our connection to Porto Ceresio was easy. The regional TRENORD train was clean, modern and extremely cheap, and we arrived in the lakes about an hour after departing Milan. Our Airbnb was just 100 yards from the station, right on Lake Lugano. Travelling in September meant warm weather and very few crowds – we almost had the lake to ourselves.
Exploring Lake Lugano and Lake Como
After a peaceful week, we travelled onward to Lake Como. Italian connections didn’t always appear on Trainline, so we booked through the Omio app instead. The journey was scenic and quiet.
During our stay we visited Menaggio, Bellagio and Villa del Balbianello — famous for its appearances in Casino Royale and Star Wars. We took the ferry to Menaggio and Bellagio from Como, and had to queue from 6:30am as was still very busy in September. Next time we would probably stay in Varenna which is easily accessible by train from Milan, and then we could use the water taxis.
The Journey Home
Our return journey was equally smooth. We spent another night in Paris before catching the Eurostar home. Travelling Standard Premier this time was comfortable. The only delay of the entire holiday was on our Sunday service back from Euston due to reduced UK services.
What We Learned
- Avoid returning on Sundays in the UK.
- Interrail passes may offer big savings.
- Book ferries on Lake Como in advance.
- Bring food for long-distance trains.
- Use the Omio app for Italian rail bookings.
The journey was expensive as we bought the tickets individually, and it was much more expensive than flying. We realised that we could have halved the cost by using an Interrail pass. Next year we are planning to go to Switzerland via Brussels and the Rhine Valley, so we have bought an Interrail pass in the sale which has cut the costs to around £350.
Final Thoughts
Travelling to the Italian Lakes by train turned out to be one of the most enjoyable, relaxing holidays we’ve ever taken. The journey became part of the adventure.
