Was it possible? The vow I made to myself – to avoid flights where I could – was leaving me torn.
Doubts flooded in as I did the research; flying is just made to be easy, right? Fast and cheap; it’s a no-brainer. I was almost resigned to the fact that if I wanted to travel internationally I would have to go against my sustainability values.
I know the science; I know our modern fast paced lifestyles will lead us to climate catastrophe. But was my moral compass strong enough?
Then, I came across Byway, the flight-free holiday experts. After a few emails back and forth I had my flight-free trip booked – and more! One day my schedule popped into existence – trains and hotels packaged with directions to and from the station. In total, my husband and I would spend just over 24 hours on trains over a 10-day period:
- London to Paris
- Paris to Munich (1 night stay)
- Munich to Venice (3-night stay)
- Venice to Rome (2-night stay)
- Rome to Milan (1 night stay)
- Milan to Basel (1 night stay)
- Basel to Paris (1 night stay)
- Paris to London
We paid £200 for a first-class upgrade, which covered all journeys, with Standard Premier on the Eurostar (which was the most expensive leg).
Our longest stretch was a 7-hour ride from Munich to Venice, crossing through the Austrian Alps. This was one of the most magical parts of the trip – the way the famous snow-capped mountains just appeared on the horizon was an astonishing sight in itself. I had almost missed out on the thrill of travelling under their stoic majesty, following the meandering river south through to the Italian vineyards and beyond.
Once we left Verona, we were only an hour away from Venice. Then in the blink of an eye, we were over the water with our first glimpse of the Venetian Island I had longed to visit. I couldn't believe we only left London yesterday and now we were in Venice. I made it. I actually made it without flying!
The holiday had truly begun. We spent three sunny April days exploring the canals, narrow maze-like passages and sprawling hideaway nooks. We did all the touristy things of course: a gondola ride, a visit to Murano for a glass making demonstration, and enjoying cicchetti and Aperol spritz in-between. Then it was time to bid adieu and visit Rome.
The capital visit was a flash of frenzy and antiquity. The next day came Milan, with a refreshing stop at Italy’s Starbucks Reserve Roastery. The day after that came my absolute favourite journey: north to Basel, through an eastern Alps passage scattered with pristine lake after pristine lake of mirror-like aquamarine (and some ethereal misty rain).
I can’t think of many drawbacks to travel this way apart from the cost and time, but I knew to expect this. I treated the rail journeys as part of the holiday – a tour through parts of the world that we’re so lucky to have so close to us. The cost obviously would be more than a flight, but not by much, especially when you add extras.
We only encountered border checks in London and Paris and we had our passports checked once on the crossing through Austria to check our ID. Overall, I would say the journey was worth it for the comfort, style, friendly staff, and a view to die for.
Tips for Inter-railing
- Download the free Rail Planner app to add your journeys and access your train tickets all in one place.
- If using connecting trains, arrive at the station about 30- 45 minutes in advance so you’re not stressing where to find the platform. The platform number normally appears on departure boards about 20-30 minutes before the train leaves. Bear in mind that these trains can include in the region of sixteen carriages and you may well be taking a walk on the platform just to find the right one! You also need to provide your ticket (and sometimes seat reservation number) to get onto the train.
- We packed lightly to help us manoeuvre around, with only a carry-on case and backpack each. You can usually fit a large case on the trains no problem, I suppose it’s based on your preference and circumstances.
- Buy snacks! For the longer journeys we bought sandwiches, water and whatever else we fancied before embarkation. There was always a café or dining car on board, but these tended to be more expensive (but not as expensive as UK prices, I found!).
- It goes without saying to take something entertaining like a book to help pass the time.
Coming home to the UK made me realise how embarrassing our public transport system is in comparison. We deserve better – so take a European rail holiday and you will appreciate first-hand what we are missing.
Amy used Byway for her holiday – find out more about Byway and book your holiday here: byway.travelA 10 day holiday for two with travel, hotels and breakfast included cost £4000.
Book your Interrail pass here: interrail.eu
Find tips in Interrailing with our guide here: How to Interrail